Thursday, October 29, 2009
Inspiration in Cuilapam de Guerrero
On Sunday we went to Cuilapam de Guerrero. We had been here in 2006 and we both loved the spot, so we wanted to come back and have another look, see if we were inspired again. We were. In Cuilapam there is a huge, unfinished religious structure. Construction was actually stopped by court decree in 1570, 20 years after King Philip had beseached the builders to be more conservative in their spending on the building. Since we were there 3 years ago, they have made beautiful improvements to the ex-convent portion of the structure. It is a truly remarkable place to be, spiritual in its setting, standing on the patio of the ex-convent, looking out at rolling hills, farmland, and maybe one day a winery?
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
Interesting Observations
I am beginning this post today but I think that I will continue to update it as I observe new interesting things. These are things that are particular to Oaxaca and probably all of Mexico and foreign to Canadians. Remember that these are observations and not critiques.
Postage Stamps: There are 3 interesting things about postage stamps. Some that denote a special person or event can be very large. We had some that were probably 3x4 inches. There wasn't enough room on the face of the letter so we had to wrap it around onto the back. Some envelopes took three of these stamps so we had to put one on the back side of the envelope. I am sure this would not work in Canada. At the post office they do not lick the stamps, they use wet clear glue. May I add that they use the glue in excess such that even the front of the stamp gets wet with glue. After the lady helpfully placed the glued stamps on my letter I was reluctant to actually put it in the mail slot. I was concerned that the wet glue would stick itself to someone elses letter and then where would it end up? I waited until the glue dried before slipping it into the mail slot.
Traffic: In the busy inner-city it is acceptable to double park as long as there is room to get around you. I have even seen people trying to parallel park between two already double parked cars. This is definitely acceptable. But, hesitate at a stop light and the horns will blare.
I took this picture out of my car window. Note that the cars on the left are parked on this one-way street leaving the single lane on the right free for traffic.
Stop Signs: I have only seen three in all of my time in this city. Traffic control is simple, north/south traffic has the right-of-way while east-west traffic waits for an opening. Of course there are traffic lights downtown but no simple stop signs. The speed of traffic is influenced by the strategic placement of speed bumps near where cross walks would be or where there is a long run north/south where drivers may be tempted to increase their speed.
Drinking Water: It is strongly recommended that you do not drink the water as it is not filtered. Everyone uses the large water bottles that you can have delivered or pick up at the corner store for C$1.10 each. Above each tap in our house there is a sign that reads "DO NOT DRINK OAXACA TAP WATER".
Regular Water: House hold water is provided by the municipality but it is only for washing, not drinking. However, the water is delivered weekly into the house's reservoir that holds 10,000 liters. The city opens its taps until the personal reservoirs are filled then the tap is turned off. The house reservoir is usually underground and there is a pump that pumps the water up onto the roof into a large tank. That is how the house gets its water pressure.
Gas: Our stove and water heater runs on gas, well propane actually. Apparently we have a large propane tank on our roof that should last us three months. It will be an adventure when we have to get it refilled. I hear the delivery trucks all day long driving around the community with a loud speaker that says "Gas Oaxaca" preceded by a horn that sounds like a braying cow and followed by music. I have seen the trucks and they are large pickup trucks with propane canisters in the back. I wonder if they carry these tanks (about 4 feet tall and 1 foot in diameter)to the roof and then transfer the propane to my tank. We will soon see. Stay tuned for future developments.
Postage Stamps: There are 3 interesting things about postage stamps. Some that denote a special person or event can be very large. We had some that were probably 3x4 inches. There wasn't enough room on the face of the letter so we had to wrap it around onto the back. Some envelopes took three of these stamps so we had to put one on the back side of the envelope. I am sure this would not work in Canada. At the post office they do not lick the stamps, they use wet clear glue. May I add that they use the glue in excess such that even the front of the stamp gets wet with glue. After the lady helpfully placed the glued stamps on my letter I was reluctant to actually put it in the mail slot. I was concerned that the wet glue would stick itself to someone elses letter and then where would it end up? I waited until the glue dried before slipping it into the mail slot.
Traffic: In the busy inner-city it is acceptable to double park as long as there is room to get around you. I have even seen people trying to parallel park between two already double parked cars. This is definitely acceptable. But, hesitate at a stop light and the horns will blare.
Stop Signs: I have only seen three in all of my time in this city. Traffic control is simple, north/south traffic has the right-of-way while east-west traffic waits for an opening. Of course there are traffic lights downtown but no simple stop signs. The speed of traffic is influenced by the strategic placement of speed bumps near where cross walks would be or where there is a long run north/south where drivers may be tempted to increase their speed.
Drinking Water: It is strongly recommended that you do not drink the water as it is not filtered. Everyone uses the large water bottles that you can have delivered or pick up at the corner store for C$1.10 each. Above each tap in our house there is a sign that reads "DO NOT DRINK OAXACA TAP WATER".
Regular Water: House hold water is provided by the municipality but it is only for washing, not drinking. However, the water is delivered weekly into the house's reservoir that holds 10,000 liters. The city opens its taps until the personal reservoirs are filled then the tap is turned off. The house reservoir is usually underground and there is a pump that pumps the water up onto the roof into a large tank. That is how the house gets its water pressure. Hot water is provided by an external propane water heater that is on the outside of the house.
Sanitation: Let's talk toilette paper. There is a sign by each of our toilets that reads "DO NOT FLUSH TOILETTE PAPER DOWN THE COMODE ANYWHERE IN THE CITY OF OAXACA. FOLD IT CAREFULLY AND PLACE IT IN THE WASTEBASKET PROVIDED". Apparently the waste water purification system is not capable of processing paper. Now this activity is very foreign to me but after a period of time I have adjusted.
Garbage Pickup: They do not pick up garbage, we deliver the garbage. Actually, twice a week at 7:00 AM a city garbage truck comes by. You can tell when it is near because it rings a cow bell. It is then up to us to take our garbage out to the curb and flag down the truck. We then have to throw it up into the truck. However, I hear the 7:00 AM bell but haven't yet made it out of bed and to the curb. But not to worry, there is another alternative. On Sunday, late afternoon there is another garbage truck but it is a private operation. It too rings its bell and I take my garbage to the curb and throw it into the truck. This costs me 1 peso (10 cents) per bag. This is a ready price I am willing to pay for not having to spring out of bed in the morning for garbage.
Animal Control: If there is such a thing as Animal Control I have not seen it. Dogs normally lay around the yard or the front of the house during the day. They are not tied up and at night roam around in packs. In our neighbourhood they seem to bark all night. Especially at 2:00 AM. Turkeys, we already mentioned that they live next door in the back yard. They are usually quiet except between 6:00 AM and 9:00 AM. Tanya can now do an impressive "gooble-gobble". I have also seen donkeys grazing next to the sidewalk untethered and in pens next to a house. Of course we have the free range chickens that always want to run across the street whenever we drive down the hill.
Sunday, October 25, 2009
San Felipe del Aqua
Ralph and I left our house on foot to walk down our hill and then up the other hill to San Felipe. We see more when we walk, so 5 hours later, we returned home dehydrated, sweaty and tired, but we certainly felt we got a good feel for San Felipe, a small village in the north end of Oaxaca city,
Our walk took us along the old aqueduct, which the city fathers built in the 16th centruy to tap the mountain springs in order to supply water to the city. We live about halfway along the aqueduct, and last week we walked south along it into the city. This week we walked north, to the source. The water is now fed through steel pipes under the road, but the old stone structure still stands.
We were told that this is where the rich people lived. As we headed up the hill, we passed by several small Quintas, small farms, that looked abandoned or close to abandoned. Obvious changes: no dogs lying on the road, the wood doors gleamed and the barbed wire was fresh and new atop many homes. We stopped by Hotel Los Laureles for lunch, a posh hotel owned by a German couple. The grounds were lovely, the food was very good, and we enjoyed the break. Farther uphill we arrive at a dead end, with a lovely view of the valley. We had been looking for the national park entrance, so we asked and were told it was down the hill and on another road. We decided to save that for another day. We stopped by the square for Ralph to have a cigar, and I chilled and we chatted. A band started to play some decent jazz/latin in the garden restaurant opposite the church. The market stall owners began to close their stalls, their husbands bringing the pick up trucks over to haul away what was not sold. Time to head home. There is one main road that goes through San Felipe. Busses, donkeys, SUV's, silly tourists who thought walking was a good idea, it's up or down the street at any given time. We were not in love with San Felipe, but we had enjoyed our day.
Saturday, October 24, 2009
Meet Hey-Seus
We discovered that Hey-Seus, the Praying Mantis, was over for a visit last night when we got home from getting the car washed. He did not call before coming over, so he was on his way out when we were on our way back in. Here is a great profile shot of him (his best side, he said) on our door jam. We've not yet posted about the little critters we have trying to share our space. We were afraid it might scare people away from coming to visit us. I was telling Ralph that this was nothing compared to living on the coast. We have some big spiders. Although we do not name our spiders, the odd ones are allowed to survive Ralph's aggressive Raid Spraying treatment if they can make a substantial argument as to their strategic placement for catching other bugs that may want to live with us and enter through doors and windows that don't have any screening. [Side bar: We continue to be perplexed about why there are no screens on windows in Mexico.] We shake our shoes out before putting them on in the morning or our slippers in the evening. Ralph thought I was just being cute when I suggested this, until he found his first scorpion, a small grey one, on the stairs. We do not name the scorpions. Ralph does a series of squashing and spraying. They are half dead anyway, the weather here is getting a bit cool for them.
I've only been charged by 1 large roach. After working in a restaurant in the Rail Station in Toronto, roaches that can carry cases of beer no longer bother me, but when they charge at me from the inside of a cupboard door, and take me by surprise, that's another story. No idea where he went off to, but I've not seen him since. Missy, the cat, is not bothered at all with sharing her space. She has a few mosquito bites, and some spider web on her pretty face the other day after exploring the garden, but overall, unperturbed.
Overall, I don't think the bugs are intrusive. Ralph, on the other hand, is still adjusting...
Thursday, October 22, 2009
Pondering Customs
On Tuesday when Ralph and I were at the Italian Coffee Company, we were watching the buses go by and chatting. On the bus, there are two employees: one driver and one heckler/ticket taker. As the bus goes by a stop (one happened to be located just beside the coffee shop) the heckler yells out the window the route of the bus "El Centro! El Centro!". I imagined this happening in Toronto, a guy leaning out the front window yelling "Dowtown! Eaton Centre!" It made me laugh, but then I began to wonder why. Why have two people working the same bus? Why the heckler? Could the driver not take the money, too? (Damn that LEAN workshop training!)
A few things occured to me. The buses barely stop to let people on. To have them potentially take money, sell tickets, make change, argue with a student trying to get a free ride. Nightmarish gridlock. Non-stop honking in the city. Better to have someone worry about logistics and another one to just drive the bus and navigate the weaving traffic of taxis, SUVs and motorcycles. And the odd brave pedestrian.
It also occured to me that perhaps the heckler is there because Oaxaca has a significant population of non-Spanish speakers in Mexico. Many indigenous still speak only their native Indian tongue. Not being able to read, a heckler yelling at me "El Centro!" would be helpful. I know where El Centro is, and what roads one might take to get there.
Ralph wondered if perhaps a driver and heckler purchased a certain route, similar to how they do it in Pakistan. That the heckler was there to drum up business, so to speak.
Ralph and I tend to take these "Mexicanisms" in stride. Though considering the reasons for the customs is interesting coffee conversation.
To read about literacy in Mexico, here is an interesting piece: Literacy in Mexico
A few things occured to me. The buses barely stop to let people on. To have them potentially take money, sell tickets, make change, argue with a student trying to get a free ride. Nightmarish gridlock. Non-stop honking in the city. Better to have someone worry about logistics and another one to just drive the bus and navigate the weaving traffic of taxis, SUVs and motorcycles. And the odd brave pedestrian.
It also occured to me that perhaps the heckler is there because Oaxaca has a significant population of non-Spanish speakers in Mexico. Many indigenous still speak only their native Indian tongue. Not being able to read, a heckler yelling at me "El Centro!" would be helpful. I know where El Centro is, and what roads one might take to get there.
Ralph wondered if perhaps a driver and heckler purchased a certain route, similar to how they do it in Pakistan. That the heckler was there to drum up business, so to speak.
Ralph and I tend to take these "Mexicanisms" in stride. Though considering the reasons for the customs is interesting coffee conversation.
To read about literacy in Mexico, here is an interesting piece: Literacy in Mexico
Tuesday, October 20, 2009
Comprese los abdominos!
My yoga teaches sticks two fingers into my flabby tummy to make sure I am really compressing them, not relying on my fat to hide me being lazy. This morning I ventured out to my first yoga class. I had Googled "yoga, oaxaca" last week, and Casa del Angel came up as an option. They have classes on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday mornings at 7 a.m., so I thought this would work well with my work schedule. I was a bit nervous as I pulled on my yoga pants and matching yoga top this morning at 6:25. For a few reasons. I am a Bikram Yoga junkie, I love it. I have my favorite teachers, I try to practice all over the world when I travel, it keeps me in an overall great state of mind, and the community of Bikram is truly open and willing to accept others of all shapes and sizes. How would this class and community compare?
It had been about 5 weeks or so since my last class, so I knew it was going to be tough. I was ready. My favorite Yoga teacher (Janice Guertin) once told me that we learn something different from every teacher. I was open to learning. I drove down and after taking the wrong turn only once, I got a parkig spot right in front of the studio. It is 6:57 and I see one woman standing outside closed doors. Hmmm... I walk over and ask her, in Spanish, if there is still an 7:00 a.m. class. Yes, she responds, and they are usually quite punctual. Do I know what time it is? When I tell her, she seems relieved. Obviously they are not late, but right on time. Another student arrives and gives me a welcoming kiss on the cheek.
The teacher arrives, opens the gates, and off we go. After asking me if I want her to speak in English, if I have any physical ailments and collecting my 50 pesos, I'm told to just grab a mat and put it wherever I want.
I am immediately worried. The teacher sits in Lotus position and begins rolling her head back and forth. Candles are lit and nice music in the background. Uh-oh. Smelling some hokey "chant while holding this posture for ten minutes" coming on.
Turns out I should have been woried for other reasons. I am now convinced that my yoga instructor, in a past life, was a member of some hard core physical training corps. Think Marines. Think Germany 1939. Think Russian Army Special Forces. As my leg is in the air shaking and I am balancing on my shoulders with my other leg up against the wall for support, she comes over, grabs my leg, pulls it straight, then tells me that my focus should be "HERE", as she beans me in my third eye and holds her finger there while holding my leg straight. Having a hard time with floor bow? Not to worry, seems she has made me her pet project for the day, she'll just come over, pull my arms back and place the rest of her weight onto my legs to get them to bend forward to her satisfaction.When she said "Open your chest", she really meant it and it seems I did not committ. She places her knee in the centre of my back and pulls my arms wider then they have ever been in my 35 years.
I came home "open", there is no other word for it. If I get out of bed and not fall on my face tomorrow morning because my legs went on stike in the night from the abuse they received today, I'll be going back for more. Thanks to Janice for her great saying "The mind is weak, the body is strong." It got me up for and through my class this morning.
Inhale. Exhale. And Comprese los abdominos!
It had been about 5 weeks or so since my last class, so I knew it was going to be tough. I was ready. My favorite Yoga teacher (Janice Guertin) once told me that we learn something different from every teacher. I was open to learning. I drove down and after taking the wrong turn only once, I got a parkig spot right in front of the studio. It is 6:57 and I see one woman standing outside closed doors. Hmmm... I walk over and ask her, in Spanish, if there is still an 7:00 a.m. class. Yes, she responds, and they are usually quite punctual. Do I know what time it is? When I tell her, she seems relieved. Obviously they are not late, but right on time. Another student arrives and gives me a welcoming kiss on the cheek.
The teacher arrives, opens the gates, and off we go. After asking me if I want her to speak in English, if I have any physical ailments and collecting my 50 pesos, I'm told to just grab a mat and put it wherever I want.
I am immediately worried. The teacher sits in Lotus position and begins rolling her head back and forth. Candles are lit and nice music in the background. Uh-oh. Smelling some hokey "chant while holding this posture for ten minutes" coming on.
Turns out I should have been woried for other reasons. I am now convinced that my yoga instructor, in a past life, was a member of some hard core physical training corps. Think Marines. Think Germany 1939. Think Russian Army Special Forces. As my leg is in the air shaking and I am balancing on my shoulders with my other leg up against the wall for support, she comes over, grabs my leg, pulls it straight, then tells me that my focus should be "HERE", as she beans me in my third eye and holds her finger there while holding my leg straight. Having a hard time with floor bow? Not to worry, seems she has made me her pet project for the day, she'll just come over, pull my arms back and place the rest of her weight onto my legs to get them to bend forward to her satisfaction.When she said "Open your chest", she really meant it and it seems I did not committ. She places her knee in the centre of my back and pulls my arms wider then they have ever been in my 35 years.
I came home "open", there is no other word for it. If I get out of bed and not fall on my face tomorrow morning because my legs went on stike in the night from the abuse they received today, I'll be going back for more. Thanks to Janice for her great saying "The mind is weak, the body is strong." It got me up for and through my class this morning.
Inhale. Exhale. And Comprese los abdominos!
Spanish Classes
I've done it. I started Spanish lessons. This is day 2 of my committed 20 days. I will see how I progress after the 4 weeks to determine how to proceed with improving my language skills.
Classes are every week day for 4 hours. The first 2 hours are grammer with one teacher and the second 2 hours are conversation with another teacher. Very intense! The class is small, just 3 of us. One student from San Francisco and the other from Switzerland. The lessons so far are review which I really need anyway. I cannot imagine what we will be doing by week three, surely we will have covered most of the grammer by then.
I drive downtown to the language school (Becari) which takes me about 20 minutes. Tanya and I walked the route on the weekend and it takes about an hour. Of course it is all downhill, much longer to walk back. Parking is always an issue especially in inner-city. I thought that I would be able to find street parking beore 9:00 AM but no. However there are a few parking lots. This does not mean open lots or parkades as in Toronto. These are more like a covered garage or a closed in (walled) space that probably doesn't hold more than 20 cars. Auto security is definitely an issue here and besides there are not many open spaces in the city.
So I found a parking garage on the next street south of the language school. Did I mention that like most older, big cities the streets are one-way? So to get to my garage I have to drive past the school for 2 blocks then turn left twice to drive back one and a half blooks to get to the garage.
This morning when I drove up to the door it was closed. The staff were outside and one was on the telephone. Apparently the guy with the key was late and it was 8:45 AM. So I had to find another lot which meant that I had to circle around using the one-way streets to get to the other close lot which is usually full because it doubles as a hotel parking garage and only has about 15 spaces. Fortunately there was a spot for me.
I have been paying about C$6 for half day parking. Very reasonable.
Anyway...if my Spanish improves I will attempt a post in Spanish. Stay in touch.
Classes are every week day for 4 hours. The first 2 hours are grammer with one teacher and the second 2 hours are conversation with another teacher. Very intense! The class is small, just 3 of us. One student from San Francisco and the other from Switzerland. The lessons so far are review which I really need anyway. I cannot imagine what we will be doing by week three, surely we will have covered most of the grammer by then.
I drive downtown to the language school (Becari) which takes me about 20 minutes. Tanya and I walked the route on the weekend and it takes about an hour. Of course it is all downhill, much longer to walk back. Parking is always an issue especially in inner-city. I thought that I would be able to find street parking beore 9:00 AM but no. However there are a few parking lots. This does not mean open lots or parkades as in Toronto. These are more like a covered garage or a closed in (walled) space that probably doesn't hold more than 20 cars. Auto security is definitely an issue here and besides there are not many open spaces in the city.
So I found a parking garage on the next street south of the language school. Did I mention that like most older, big cities the streets are one-way? So to get to my garage I have to drive past the school for 2 blocks then turn left twice to drive back one and a half blooks to get to the garage.
This morning when I drove up to the door it was closed. The staff were outside and one was on the telephone. Apparently the guy with the key was late and it was 8:45 AM. So I had to find another lot which meant that I had to circle around using the one-way streets to get to the other close lot which is usually full because it doubles as a hotel parking garage and only has about 15 spaces. Fortunately there was a spot for me.
I have been paying about C$6 for half day parking. Very reasonable.
Anyway...if my Spanish improves I will attempt a post in Spanish. Stay in touch.
Sunday, October 18, 2009
Adventures East
As I write this, Ralph and I are closing all the windows in the house as a wicked storm has come through the valley. The wind is whipping the palm trees around and the dogs are barking as the black clouds roll in off the mountains. The turkeys are mysteriously quiet.
Although the weather right now might not be ideal, we took advantage of marking our first week in Oaxaca with a little adventure east on Saturday. We had outstanding weather, sunny and warm, and after a little time spent getting our oil changed, we headed off towards the signs for El Thule.
Santa Maria El Thule is a short drive from the city, and famous for a huge tree that is over 2000 years old. Ralph and I had been before, but we still paid our 5 pesos entrance fee to walk around it, and again we were impressed. We then took some time to walk around the town, which has some nice artisan markets, the better quality goods are off the main drag, one block further east of the church.
From El Thule, we continued east to Tlacochahuaya (please do not try to pronounce this without a few mezcal). There is a church there that has outstanding frescoes, and a small courtyard that used to be a convent. Antonio, the new caretaker who has been there for a week, practiced his English with us and we chatted about the restoration. It's due to be finished in August 2010, and there will be a big celebration. Of course. He then suggested that we head up a hill that was close by, for a view of the valley. In giving us directions, he walked us outside to show us the street where we would go two blocks down, and then right, from here up a dirt road to a small summit. For his time, a 10 pesos donation to the church was acceptable, and he provided a recipt as proof of our "generosity". He called after us as we left to make sure we would go up the hill. We promised we would, and so we did. I look forward to telling him how much we appreciated the view from that hilltop.
Back down the dirt path and onto the highway for maybe another 10 kilometers, where we turn off onto a small road that leads to a small archological site, Dainzan. 31 pesos entry fee is expected to plod around small ruins. What is most remarkable about the site is that, upon climbing to the top of Building A, you can envision why someone would settle here. Flat farm land surrounds a small peak, upon which Daizan is built. It's no Monte Alban, but it certainly had its charm.
Back in the car, I am starving, so we head to Teotitlan Del Valle. This village is famous for its weavers who make absolutely remarkable rugs. (More on the rugs in another post, I promise, Yannik!) After driving around the town with no inspiration of where to eat, I am exasperated and stop a young woman and ask her where I can get food. She sends us around the corner, and after making a u-turn after crossing the bridge, we decide that a small cafeteria will have to do. It's right before you head over the bridge, there are no menus, you pull the beer out of the fridge yourself and open it yourself, but I had the best ham sandwich I've ever had in my life. Ham, cheese, pickles, tomatoes and lettuce. My sandwich and my beer cost me 20 pesos - about $1.85 with today's exchange rate. The great sandwich at the great price made Ralph's whole day. I know I'll never be able to eat anywhere else in this town.
We took in a few rug places and visited the Santiago family who we met the last time we were here. Though the owner did not remember us, when we were leaving, I said we would be back. "Ojala", he responds. If God wills it.
Hopefully, God wills it, many times over.
Although the weather right now might not be ideal, we took advantage of marking our first week in Oaxaca with a little adventure east on Saturday. We had outstanding weather, sunny and warm, and after a little time spent getting our oil changed, we headed off towards the signs for El Thule.
Santa Maria El Thule is a short drive from the city, and famous for a huge tree that is over 2000 years old. Ralph and I had been before, but we still paid our 5 pesos entrance fee to walk around it, and again we were impressed. We then took some time to walk around the town, which has some nice artisan markets, the better quality goods are off the main drag, one block further east of the church.
From El Thule, we continued east to Tlacochahuaya (please do not try to pronounce this without a few mezcal). There is a church there that has outstanding frescoes, and a small courtyard that used to be a convent. Antonio, the new caretaker who has been there for a week, practiced his English with us and we chatted about the restoration. It's due to be finished in August 2010, and there will be a big celebration. Of course. He then suggested that we head up a hill that was close by, for a view of the valley. In giving us directions, he walked us outside to show us the street where we would go two blocks down, and then right, from here up a dirt road to a small summit. For his time, a 10 pesos donation to the church was acceptable, and he provided a recipt as proof of our "generosity". He called after us as we left to make sure we would go up the hill. We promised we would, and so we did. I look forward to telling him how much we appreciated the view from that hilltop.
Back down the dirt path and onto the highway for maybe another 10 kilometers, where we turn off onto a small road that leads to a small archological site, Dainzan. 31 pesos entry fee is expected to plod around small ruins. What is most remarkable about the site is that, upon climbing to the top of Building A, you can envision why someone would settle here. Flat farm land surrounds a small peak, upon which Daizan is built. It's no Monte Alban, but it certainly had its charm.
Back in the car, I am starving, so we head to Teotitlan Del Valle. This village is famous for its weavers who make absolutely remarkable rugs. (More on the rugs in another post, I promise, Yannik!) After driving around the town with no inspiration of where to eat, I am exasperated and stop a young woman and ask her where I can get food. She sends us around the corner, and after making a u-turn after crossing the bridge, we decide that a small cafeteria will have to do. It's right before you head over the bridge, there are no menus, you pull the beer out of the fridge yourself and open it yourself, but I had the best ham sandwich I've ever had in my life. Ham, cheese, pickles, tomatoes and lettuce. My sandwich and my beer cost me 20 pesos - about $1.85 with today's exchange rate. The great sandwich at the great price made Ralph's whole day. I know I'll never be able to eat anywhere else in this town.
We took in a few rug places and visited the Santiago family who we met the last time we were here. Though the owner did not remember us, when we were leaving, I said we would be back. "Ojala", he responds. If God wills it.
Hopefully, God wills it, many times over.
You can check out other pictures from the day on my Facebook page.
Tell me about Oaxaca
Rather than me trying to describe the state of Oaxaca and the city of the same name how about reading Wikipedia. Here is the link for the State of Oaxaca and the link for the City of Oaxaca.
Another reference worth your time to visit is "Oaxaca Dream".
This site contains articles written by Alvin Starkman, a transplanted Torontonian. We met Alvin during our first visit to Oaxaca in 2006. Alvin provided us with 2 days of extensive tours around the Oaxaca valley. I believe that one of the major factors for Tanya and I to focus on Oaxaca was Alvin's great introduction to the sites and activities the valley has to offer.
We have also read Alvin's newsletters and enjoy his insights into Oaxacan life. I hope you will read his articles referenced above and enjoy them as we have.
Another reference worth your time to visit is "Oaxaca Dream".
This site contains articles written by Alvin Starkman, a transplanted Torontonian. We met Alvin during our first visit to Oaxaca in 2006. Alvin provided us with 2 days of extensive tours around the Oaxaca valley. I believe that one of the major factors for Tanya and I to focus on Oaxaca was Alvin's great introduction to the sites and activities the valley has to offer.
We have also read Alvin's newsletters and enjoy his insights into Oaxacan life. I hope you will read his articles referenced above and enjoy them as we have.
View from the downstairs patio
This little movie is a 360 degree pan of the view from the downstairs patio. The patio is covered and is a nice place to sit in the shade or when it is raining. It is comfortable for our morning coffee and my after breakfast cigar. The lighting is not the best as it was very sunny at the time the picture was taken. The mountains in the background are not as clear as I would like. Maybe I'll take another movie another day when it is not so sunny. The mountains are so high or the clouds so low that the mountain tops are frequently covered by clouds. Note that I start and stop the video on our little blue Suzuki Swift. This little car has brought us the 4,405 km from Toronto to Oaxaca without incident and brings us up the hill (must be 50%+ grade) to our house every day.
Thursday, October 15, 2009
Bank Card, What Bank Card - an update
Guess what? When the TD Bank cancelled my business banking card they also cancelled my personal bank card which I have in my possession. That means that I have no access to money.
Fortunately the Bank was able to set up a new card and give me the number. This is not usual but since it was their error they relented. So I can access my money online but still cannot get any cash.
Again fortune smiles on me because I can move money between my and Tanya's account. But... Tanya's PIN is too long for her to use the bank machines in Mexico so I still have no access to money. When Tanya gets a moment she can contact the TD Bank in Toronto to have her PIN changed. In the meantime I need to watch my spending.
Will I ever get this sorted out? This reminds me of the time in Pakistan (www.DestinationPakistan.BlogSpot.com) when Azhar and I showed up to check into a hotel and his passport was left in the hotel room safe in Lahore. He who laughs last laughs best.
Fortunately the Bank was able to set up a new card and give me the number. This is not usual but since it was their error they relented. So I can access my money online but still cannot get any cash.
Again fortune smiles on me because I can move money between my and Tanya's account. But... Tanya's PIN is too long for her to use the bank machines in Mexico so I still have no access to money. When Tanya gets a moment she can contact the TD Bank in Toronto to have her PIN changed. In the meantime I need to watch my spending.
Will I ever get this sorted out? This reminds me of the time in Pakistan (www.DestinationPakistan.BlogSpot.com) when Azhar and I showed up to check into a hotel and his passport was left in the hotel room safe in Lahore. He who laughs last laughs best.
Our Workday
Yes, we are actually working. Tanya uses the upstairs as her office while I use the downstairs for my office.
After breakfast Tanya retires to her office where she conducts her calls using Skype for her telephone calls. I stay downstairs where I am reading a book on Online Marketing and studying Spanish from CDs.
We meet for lunch downstairs in my office and then Tanya disappears again until 5 or 6 PM. After supper we take a walk or drive. This is the schedule Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday. We then have the weekend for site seeing and shopping.
As time goes on and I get more familiar with the area I will probably venture out more on my own. Starting next week I will be taking formal Spanish lessons. The lessons are 5 days per week for 4 hours per day. 2 hours will be grammar and 2 hours will be conservation. In the evenings I will review my learning with Tanya.
That is the schedule so far but once I start Spanish lessons next week it may change for awhile. But so far we are very busy and enjoying the hot days and cool nights.
After breakfast Tanya retires to her office where she conducts her calls using Skype for her telephone calls. I stay downstairs where I am reading a book on Online Marketing and studying Spanish from CDs.
We meet for lunch downstairs in my office and then Tanya disappears again until 5 or 6 PM. After supper we take a walk or drive. This is the schedule Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday. We then have the weekend for site seeing and shopping.
As time goes on and I get more familiar with the area I will probably venture out more on my own. Starting next week I will be taking formal Spanish lessons. The lessons are 5 days per week for 4 hours per day. 2 hours will be grammar and 2 hours will be conservation. In the evenings I will review my learning with Tanya.
That is the schedule so far but once I start Spanish lessons next week it may change for awhile. But so far we are very busy and enjoying the hot days and cool nights.
Wednesday, October 14, 2009
Pilot to Navigator - Let's Go
I have yet to venture out on my own in the car. I need my navigator - Tanya. Why? Well there is so much to concentrate on when driving that I cannot read the street signs and keep our car in one piece.
Our poor car has been taking a beating from underneath already. Mexico does not need traffic police to control the speed of traffic. Instead they use "topes" or as we say "speed bumps". These bumps come in various styles and sizes and if you hit one too quickly the bottom of your car and or your shocks take the hit.
Styles:
- 4 feet wide and 1 foot high;
- 4 feet wide and 1 foot deep (inverted tope);
- 2 feet wide and 6 inches high;
- 8 inches wide and 8 inches high;
- metal half spheres 1 foot in diameter spaced 1 foot apart;
- the repaired cement that looks like a tope but is not.
Okay you may say, "I can get over those". Yes, we can easily navigate these road disturbances but... they appear at random and are mixed just to keep you on your toes.
So why do I need a navigator? Well first of all this is a new city for us and we do not know our way around yet so we need to follow a map or the GPS. Secondly, there are not always (rarely) lane markings and 2 lanes can easily hold 3 cars so you need to watch both sides of the car. Also, double parking seems to be standard and motorcycles can lane split (drive between cars). Did I mention pot holes and unmarked road works.
When you add the surprise of a tope while watching ahead and all sides at the same time it is very risky having your eyes stray to an interesting landmark or a street sign. (I didn't even include the buses)As soon as you do "wham", you hit a tope. I am getting used to watching the car ahead as a warning beacon of upcoming topes.
Every day it gets better. That is, less under car scraping. I am sure that in no time at all I will be going solo. But for now, I'll take along my navigator.
Note: Tope is pronounced as 2 syllables with the accent on the first.
Our poor car has been taking a beating from underneath already. Mexico does not need traffic police to control the speed of traffic. Instead they use "topes" or as we say "speed bumps". These bumps come in various styles and sizes and if you hit one too quickly the bottom of your car and or your shocks take the hit.
Styles:
- 4 feet wide and 1 foot high;
- 4 feet wide and 1 foot deep (inverted tope);
- 2 feet wide and 6 inches high;
- 8 inches wide and 8 inches high;
- metal half spheres 1 foot in diameter spaced 1 foot apart;
- the repaired cement that looks like a tope but is not.
Okay you may say, "I can get over those". Yes, we can easily navigate these road disturbances but... they appear at random and are mixed just to keep you on your toes.
So why do I need a navigator? Well first of all this is a new city for us and we do not know our way around yet so we need to follow a map or the GPS. Secondly, there are not always (rarely) lane markings and 2 lanes can easily hold 3 cars so you need to watch both sides of the car. Also, double parking seems to be standard and motorcycles can lane split (drive between cars). Did I mention pot holes and unmarked road works.
When you add the surprise of a tope while watching ahead and all sides at the same time it is very risky having your eyes stray to an interesting landmark or a street sign. (I didn't even include the buses)As soon as you do "wham", you hit a tope. I am getting used to watching the car ahead as a warning beacon of upcoming topes.
Every day it gets better. That is, less under car scraping. I am sure that in no time at all I will be going solo. But for now, I'll take along my navigator.
Note: Tope is pronounced as 2 syllables with the accent on the first.
Tuesday, October 13, 2009
My Turkeys, My Hill, My Oaxaca
Settling In. Still. I was telling Ralph how literally exhausted I am. Between the stress of getting the basement renovated, looking after last minutes things, putting our own things away in the event we rented the house, forwarding mail, working, and actually driving to Mexico via Austin, I underestimated how truly exhausted I am. The last few days have been about small excursions and trying to get to bed early, as between stress dreams and Ralph sitting bolt upright in bed and hollering at me when I made a noise opening the bathroom door at 2:00 a.m., we've not had long days and nights. But we have turkeys. Next door the neighbor keeps turkeys in his backyard. Their gobbling makes us laugh and then try to imitate them. When we headed out to the Zocalo (downtown square) after work today, they were by the side of the road as we headed down our hill to the main road. And yes, this is a picture of our hill that we climb up and down when not in the car to get to our house.
Let me just say how toned my butt will be after 6 month of hauling it up this hill. Walking around the zocalo this evening, oogling the shoe stores (such great selection and great deals - we may need a U-Haul after 6 months), I feel a bit more settled, a bit more excited, a bit more into the groove of My Oaxaca.
Calling from Mexico on the cheap
Long distance calling is normally an expensive proposition but not any more. In Mexico we are using Skype (http://www.skype.com) to make our calls to Canada for free or just pennies.
We can call another Skype user from our computer to theirs at no charge. We the person on the other end of the call has a camera we can also see each other as we talk. This is a great feature for keeping in touch. We can also move the camera around so that the other person can see the landscape of where we are (provided it is not dark outside).
Some Skype users like my brother and sister have "call forwarded" their account to their telephones so that I can contact them even when they are not online. These are free calls.
My parents do not have a computer so I call to their home telephone directly. I have set up a Skype credit of C$14.00 for this purpose. The calls are less that $0.03 per minute. At that rate I can talk all day and I expect that the C$14.00 will last for the 6 months that we are away.
If you have Skype why not add us to your contact list. Our Skype names are Ralph.Gault and Tanyalapierre. Why not call us some time?
We can call another Skype user from our computer to theirs at no charge. We the person on the other end of the call has a camera we can also see each other as we talk. This is a great feature for keeping in touch. We can also move the camera around so that the other person can see the landscape of where we are (provided it is not dark outside).
Some Skype users like my brother and sister have "call forwarded" their account to their telephones so that I can contact them even when they are not online. These are free calls.
My parents do not have a computer so I call to their home telephone directly. I have set up a Skype credit of C$14.00 for this purpose. The calls are less that $0.03 per minute. At that rate I can talk all day and I expect that the C$14.00 will last for the 6 months that we are away.
If you have Skype why not add us to your contact list. Our Skype names are Ralph.Gault and Tanyalapierre. Why not call us some time?
Banking From Mexico or OMG I lost my bank card
Banking internationally is really easy. From the internet you can access your accounts, pay home bills online, transfer money between your accounts and even send money to people by email. You can also go to just about any banking machine and get money from your accounts.
Yes, this is all very easy unless you leave your card in a bank machine and drive away. Yes, drive away without your card. This is what I did at a stop along the Gulf Coast on our way between Tampico and Veracruz.
Of course I did not realize that I did not have my card until I arrive in Oaxaca. Fortunately I have a business account and a personal account which means that I have two cards. Well I used to have 2 cards until I left my business banking card in the machine.
But not to worry, just call the bank, cancel the card and transfer money to my personal account. Now the trick is to get a new business banking card with a new number so that I can access the account online. Not so easy. Apparently they can not give out a bank card number over the telephone. This is a problem because I receive income into my business account which I then transfer to my personal account as needed.
The solution? Have the bank issue a new card and mail it to my home address. No way was I going to have then mail it to Mexico and guarantee that I would actually receive it. Again, by fortune or luck I have our home email being forwarded to a trusted friend in Toronto who will receive my card within 5 to 7 business days. I can get the card number then and will be able to do online banking on my business account. In the interim I can call the bank and have them transfer money between my accounts.
But, if I had the Post Office hold my mail until April I would have to be calling the bank for every transaction.
What did I learn from his experience? Keep copies of all your cards not just the credit cards and the account numbers.
Yes, this is all very easy unless you leave your card in a bank machine and drive away. Yes, drive away without your card. This is what I did at a stop along the Gulf Coast on our way between Tampico and Veracruz.
Of course I did not realize that I did not have my card until I arrive in Oaxaca. Fortunately I have a business account and a personal account which means that I have two cards. Well I used to have 2 cards until I left my business banking card in the machine.
But not to worry, just call the bank, cancel the card and transfer money to my personal account. Now the trick is to get a new business banking card with a new number so that I can access the account online. Not so easy. Apparently they can not give out a bank card number over the telephone. This is a problem because I receive income into my business account which I then transfer to my personal account as needed.
The solution? Have the bank issue a new card and mail it to my home address. No way was I going to have then mail it to Mexico and guarantee that I would actually receive it. Again, by fortune or luck I have our home email being forwarded to a trusted friend in Toronto who will receive my card within 5 to 7 business days. I can get the card number then and will be able to do online banking on my business account. In the interim I can call the bank and have them transfer money between my accounts.
But, if I had the Post Office hold my mail until April I would have to be calling the bank for every transaction.
What did I learn from his experience? Keep copies of all your cards not just the credit cards and the account numbers.
Sunday, October 11, 2009
Blind Faith
We arrived yesterday, safely, but a little battle worn. We spent about 40 minutes driving around Oaxaca having the GPS recalculate our route to our house about 17 times. The streets here are narrow and short, accuracy of the GPS is average at best. The GPS also thinks we drive a Range Rover, as it let us up dirt paths that it considered streets. We drove from about an hour north of Veracruz on the Gulf Coast to Oaxaca, and stopped for about an hour in Fortin to see family. It was great to see then again, after 10 years, and get caught up on their lives. Leaving Fortin, we drove through incredible mountain ranges. As we drove we chatted about the last few days, what we had seem, how we felt about being here, people we had run into (A Canadian on a motorcycle from Saskatoon and a European on an extended adventure, going until he was broke, who had spent a year in Canada and thought we were very cool to have driven here and to be coming to live here.) We also talked about Faith. Ninety five percent of Mexico's population is Catholic. Ralph commented that they had to be in order to drive in this country. As we watched and participated in two lane highways become three lanes, paved shoulders become full lanes, and speed limits are mere suggestions, Ralph proclaimed that to drive in Mexico, one must have blind faith. Blind Faith that the person coming toward you is paying attention and will move over to accommodate your passing a double semi tractor trailer on a blind curve over a double solid line. Blind faith that everyone knows the width of their car, including or excluding paint, and blind faith that the cows know how to hustle off the road in good time.
I wonder if 6 months here will have Ralph baptized, with a rosary of Saint Christopher wrapped around the rear view mirror and making the sign of the cross before starting the car every day.
I wonder if 6 months here will have Ralph baptized, with a rosary of Saint Christopher wrapped around the rear view mirror and making the sign of the cross before starting the car every day.
Friday, October 9, 2009
A few Pictures
The mountains are what we drove through this morning, on our way out of the state of Tamaulipas on our way to Veracruz. The Men in the Truck are an hommage to all those we saw holding their hats on the way here, and to all those we know we will see over the next 6 months!
Immediately Mexico
Here we are, Day 2 in Mexico, and already Ralph and I are enchanted. We left behind our friends in Austin - a speacial thanks to both Melissa and Wendy for letting Ralph and I stay with you while we were there. Ralph commented on your generous hospitality, how warmly you accepted us both into your routines and homes. Leaving Wendy's at around 9:30 in the morning, we arrived at the border around 3:30. The border was reasonably easy, the whole process took about 1 hour, including the car permit. We are a bit concerned about the car permit being tied to our visas, and having to surrender our visas when we fly back to Canada in February, but Ralph figures his Spanish language skills should be good enough by then that he can manage any issues.
And so, at about 4:30 p.m. on October 8th, 2009, we begin our 6 months of living in Mexico. The country is immediately recognizable for its differences, from the painted signs on the buildings to the lack of lines on the roadway, we have arrived. It suddenly sinks in that what we have planned for, dreamed about and spoken of is finally here.
Our ambition the first night was to arrive in Ciudad Victoria (named for Mexico's First President Guadalupe Victoria) before nightfall and check into Hotel Mision Ciudad Victoria. We arrived after dark, and after a bit of an adventure finding the place (wrong way on one way streets, turning at a petrol station into oncoming traffic - did I mention it was dark?) we checked in (BTW - if you want the internet rate, you need to book the room on the internet, the drop-in-no-idea-if-I-will-make-it-there-in-one-piece rate is twice the price at CA$110.00), went to dinner and crashed.
Day 2 has us in the car for yet another long day, about 10 hours, and although the thought of more car time tomorrow makes me (and Missy The Cat) want to weep, I continue to be charmed. We are staying at the Hotel Dorado, in Vega de Alatore, Veracruz. Our room has a hard king size bed, a jacuzzi with the water that comes into the tub like a water fall, and the waitress in the little restaurant tells me that the shrimp I had for dinner come from down the road, about 15 minutes. Ralph and I had about the equvalent of 2 shrimp rings, a beer each, and of course rice and tortillas, for a whopping CA$17.00. We stopped this morning at a truck stop for eggs and coffee, and I wondered why I love this country, its places, customs and people so much. Why does it not bother me that there were cobwebs everywhere in the restaurant? Why do I look at a toilet with no seat and smile, remembering that this is the way in Mexico? Where in Canada the mere thought of instant coffee gives me heartburn, when the waitress puts two mugs of hot water on the table and taps the jar of Nescafe on the table, I smile and say thanks and Ralph and I look at eachother and share that little secret look. We are charmed, we fall under Mexico's magic quickly and efficiently. We are already wondering what my niece, Ayla, will think of the horses tethered everywhere and the chickens by the side of the road.
And so, at about 4:30 p.m. on October 8th, 2009, we begin our 6 months of living in Mexico. The country is immediately recognizable for its differences, from the painted signs on the buildings to the lack of lines on the roadway, we have arrived. It suddenly sinks in that what we have planned for, dreamed about and spoken of is finally here.
Our ambition the first night was to arrive in Ciudad Victoria (named for Mexico's First President Guadalupe Victoria) before nightfall and check into Hotel Mision Ciudad Victoria. We arrived after dark, and after a bit of an adventure finding the place (wrong way on one way streets, turning at a petrol station into oncoming traffic - did I mention it was dark?) we checked in (BTW - if you want the internet rate, you need to book the room on the internet, the drop-in-no-idea-if-I-will-make-it-there-in-one-piece rate is twice the price at CA$110.00), went to dinner and crashed.
Day 2 has us in the car for yet another long day, about 10 hours, and although the thought of more car time tomorrow makes me (and Missy The Cat) want to weep, I continue to be charmed. We are staying at the Hotel Dorado, in Vega de Alatore, Veracruz. Our room has a hard king size bed, a jacuzzi with the water that comes into the tub like a water fall, and the waitress in the little restaurant tells me that the shrimp I had for dinner come from down the road, about 15 minutes. Ralph and I had about the equvalent of 2 shrimp rings, a beer each, and of course rice and tortillas, for a whopping CA$17.00. We stopped this morning at a truck stop for eggs and coffee, and I wondered why I love this country, its places, customs and people so much. Why does it not bother me that there were cobwebs everywhere in the restaurant? Why do I look at a toilet with no seat and smile, remembering that this is the way in Mexico? Where in Canada the mere thought of instant coffee gives me heartburn, when the waitress puts two mugs of hot water on the table and taps the jar of Nescafe on the table, I smile and say thanks and Ralph and I look at eachother and share that little secret look. We are charmed, we fall under Mexico's magic quickly and efficiently. We are already wondering what my niece, Ayla, will think of the horses tethered everywhere and the chickens by the side of the road.
Monday, October 5, 2009
Arkansas is for Jesus like Canada is for Maple Syrup
JESUS LOVES YOU - it seems he loves me in a gas bar bathroom in Little Rock, Arkansas and along the highway just outside of Indianapolis, as well. Also something for you to contemplate between Indianapolis and Fort Wayne is "If you die today, where will you spend eternity?" All in CAPS, of course. Interesting that whomever paid for the sign assumed I had a choice in the matter. I must also mention the greeting party in Texarkana, who stood in a parking lot on a rainy Sunday and held up signs that reminded us idle passerby that "Abortion is Murder"... In case on that very Sunday I was on my way to an appointment.
Claire had commented on a previous post about California ads on the radio, that every second one was for breast augmentation. In Texas, it seems to be insurance. And The Inner Science Cavern: http://www.myinnerspacecavern.com/
As I sit in the office this morning in Austin, after having arrived safely last night to Melissa and Andy's and played a rousing game of Rock Band, I try to think about our billboard ads in Toronto, Quebec, the Maritimes... What do we say on these giant signs that tells foreigners about us? We like Underwear?
Claire had commented on a previous post about California ads on the radio, that every second one was for breast augmentation. In Texas, it seems to be insurance. And The Inner Science Cavern: http://www.myinnerspacecavern.com/
As I sit in the office this morning in Austin, after having arrived safely last night to Melissa and Andy's and played a rousing game of Rock Band, I try to think about our billboard ads in Toronto, Quebec, the Maritimes... What do we say on these giant signs that tells foreigners about us? We like Underwear?
Saturday, October 3, 2009
Day 1 & 2
Ralph Post: So we thought that we would be off Friday by 6:00 AM but by the time we got everything loaded it was 10:00 Am. But that's okay, we are on vacation so why rush. The first stop was at Starbucks and the post office.
I was surprised that we were able to get all of our stuff (enough for 6 months) into the little car but we did.
The trick was to get it out at night and be able to repack in the morning. Surprisingly I was able to do just that.
Anyway, we did get on the road and even with a late start we were able to drive 700 km the first day. The border crossing at Port Huron was reasonably fast, only 22 minutes. The first 20 minutes was waiting in line and only a 2 minute conversation with the border guard and we were into the United States.
Driving with the cat was easier than expected. The drugs that I got from the Vet really chilled Missy (the cat) out for the drive. That was a nice surprise.
Day 2 was a slow start again. We started out at 10:00 AM-ish and our first stop was for breakfast which took almost an hour. It was a long drive over 10 hours and we covered 900 km arriving at Memphis. Tomorrow will be a long day if we expect to arrive in Austin.
I apparently had made some assumptions about the geography of the U.S. For one, I expected Indiana to be flat but not as flat as it is with farms that run off into the horizon. Missouri was even falter. I am sure we passed rice fields and cotton fields. Harvesting must be mechanized, no way they could harvest by hand without having thousands of pickers.
I was surprised that we were able to get all of our stuff (enough for 6 months) into the little car but we did.
The trick was to get it out at night and be able to repack in the morning. Surprisingly I was able to do just that.Anyway, we did get on the road and even with a late start we were able to drive 700 km the first day. The border crossing at Port Huron was reasonably fast, only 22 minutes. The first 20 minutes was waiting in line and only a 2 minute conversation with the border guard and we were into the United States.
Driving with the cat was easier than expected. The drugs that I got from the Vet really chilled Missy (the cat) out for the drive. That was a nice surprise.
Day 2 was a slow start again. We started out at 10:00 AM-ish and our first stop was for breakfast which took almost an hour. It was a long drive over 10 hours and we covered 900 km arriving at Memphis. Tomorrow will be a long day if we expect to arrive in Austin.
I apparently had made some assumptions about the geography of the U.S. For one, I expected Indiana to be flat but not as flat as it is with farms that run off into the horizon. Missouri was even falter. I am sure we passed rice fields and cotton fields. Harvesting must be mechanized, no way they could harvest by hand without having thousands of pickers.
The Express Inn
The Express Inn in West Memphis allows dogs. Not cats, though, so Missy is pretending she is a dog tonight. She seems fine with this, she is currently tucked under the blankets, sleeping. I would say she has been traveling well overall. At the last moment I could not cope with having to organize anything else, so we decided she would travel with us.
Our journey today was about 900 kilometers, from Indiana through Missouri to Arkansas, evidently The Natural State. The Iron Skillet (breakfast and dinner were enjoyed at this lovely truck stop) had free God CD's, Ralph picked one up in Spanish. By the time we get to Melissa and Andy's tomorrow, I am sure we will be well verses in the Dios and Jesus vernacular. I have decided that our friend Dan would love The Iron Skillet, with it's meals served literally on flat iron skillets. Filled with truckers who flirt with the waitresses and waitresses who, I am positive, are all single mothers of 5 children, none from the same Daddy (I could pay to prove this through DNA if I was staying 7 days...), the belt buckles at the front cash and the menu filled with tasty 'Mericin cookin reminds me of Dan.
Our journey today was about 900 kilometers, from Indiana through Missouri to Arkansas, evidently The Natural State. The Iron Skillet (breakfast and dinner were enjoyed at this lovely truck stop) had free God CD's, Ralph picked one up in Spanish. By the time we get to Melissa and Andy's tomorrow, I am sure we will be well verses in the Dios and Jesus vernacular. I have decided that our friend Dan would love The Iron Skillet, with it's meals served literally on flat iron skillets. Filled with truckers who flirt with the waitresses and waitresses who, I am positive, are all single mothers of 5 children, none from the same Daddy (I could pay to prove this through DNA if I was staying 7 days...), the belt buckles at the front cash and the menu filled with tasty 'Mericin cookin reminds me of Dan.
Who's Your Daddy?
Tanya Posting: "Who's Your Daddy? DNA testing. Results in 7 days". This on several telephone poles as we drive through the outskirts of Indianapolis. "A Heartbeat at 18 Days! An EMBRYO IS A TINY CHILD". More from the State of Indiana. I think Indiana has a birth control issue, or some very polygamist citizens! And finally the hospital advertisements have Ralph and I talking about the differences in landscape for a few hours. From the "Saskatchewan-ness" of Indiana and Missouri to the adverts along highways, our landscape has changed. Over dinner tonight at the Iron Skillet, where I had salad after resisting the Chicken Fried Steak and the waitress was so rude I was stunned into silence, we tried to think about the last time we were in Mexico, what the advertisements along the highways and the telephone poles were for. I remember election signs on the drive from Merida to Progresso, but can't think of any others. I will be sure to watch for what other landscape changes we notice.
Friday, October 2, 2009
And We're Off!
Tanya Posting: Welcome to Indiana, the Crossroads of America. We're settled into the Guesthouse Inn somewhere outside of Fort Wayne, Indiana. The "whirlpool room" (an upgrade at $55 per night) has wireless Internet, a somewhat clean bathroom and a TV. Most importantly, they accepted cats, so Missy (The Siamese) is settled onto one of the three pillows, resting after her tough day in the car. We ended up leaving Toronto at 11:05, after our first Starbucks stop. My friend Cecilia bought us travel mugs, which the staff at Starbucks admired greatly. The name of the mugs is "Contigo", which in Spanish means "With you". So Cecilia is with us on our trip, it seems.
In Ohio we kept seeing signs that read " Target Area', which we discovered means that when the speed starts changing 4 times every mile, they are targeting you as a prime candidate for a speeding ticket. $110. (Bitter, bitter, bitter.) The young police officer was kind enough to knock $30 off the original fee. How. Very. Kind.
Day 1 - 1 Starbucks, 1 speeding ticket, and the cat survived...
In Ohio we kept seeing signs that read " Target Area', which we discovered means that when the speed starts changing 4 times every mile, they are targeting you as a prime candidate for a speeding ticket. $110. (Bitter, bitter, bitter.) The young police officer was kind enough to knock $30 off the original fee. How. Very. Kind.
Day 1 - 1 Starbucks, 1 speeding ticket, and the cat survived...
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