Adventures of Ralph and George

Our friend George who is visiting from Canada for 3 weeks wanted to see more of Mexico. His interest was Veracruz on the Gulf of Mexico. And Ralph said that why take a bus, let's drive.

So off they went leaving Tanya home to work.

The plan was to drive to Fortin de las Flores and stay overnight with Tanya's step-grand-mother then drive into Veracruz the next day. One overnight in Veracruz and then back to Oaxaca,

The drive out of Oaxaca on the Tuesday was great. The weather was clear and there were very few cars and trucks on the road. We made very good time (IE I drove very fast). George was amazed at the change in geography as we approached the state of Puebla and then again as we approached the state of Veracruz. In Puebla there is a big volcano with snow on the top year round. It is an outstanding view. Of course we were looking for "The Italian Coffee Company", a Starbucks clone. We didn't come across one until near the Veracruz/Puebla border. That made George very happy.

The only other event on the drive was being flagged over at a military stop where I was asked for my car permit and to search the trunk. I think that is what the guy was saying. I didn't understand all of what he was saying. I just pointed to my Temporary Import Permit on the front window and opened the trunk for them. After a quick poke around our bags and a guy at the back saying "Ontario" as he pointed at my plate, we were off. They probably didn't want to go through all of the trouble trying to converse with me.

Before going into Fortin we stopped in Córdoba which is next to Fortin and much larger. At the Zócalo we had lunch and coffee. George ordered a paella which is mainly sea food with a little chicken over saffron rice. Afterwards we walked about town then headed off to Fortin. Did I mention that it was cold? I was the only person in town wearing sandals with no socks. It was overcast and cool. Most people were wearing coats and scarfs. I was obviously a tourist from someplace warm.

Off to Fortin. Anyway, we were having a great visit with the family. George and I were fluently conversing in Spanish with Laura, Tonia, Jessica and Nona (grand-mother). Then Nona says, "Do you want to walk to the bridge?". I say yes. I have been there a few times before and think that George would like the view. The road bridge and train bridge cross over a deep valley where after walking 350 steps down there is a public swimming pool. Of course it is too cold for swimming. Nona hands me a cigar and says, Let's go. Hey, I like the cigar bit. I check the label, it says "It's a girl" (in Spanish). But it is fresh and smokes nicely. Nona says she has had the cigar for 5 years. Did I mention how humid it gets in Fortin? It must be like a humidor.

Down the street and up onto the highway we go. It is a half kilometer walk along side roaring traffic to the bridge. The bridge is named "Bridge of Love". I don't know if anyone really jumped from there. I learned that when the bridge was being built people buried their dead in the cement. That was supposed to have good karma.

Anyway, there is a viewing spot, a small store and parking for tourists. But the view is not good enough for us so we walk up and over the bank onto the train bridge. There is a better view from that bridge. And then what do you know, a train! We cross over to the other track to let the train pass. We wave and the engineer hoots and waves back.

Okay, enough of this and besides it is starting to rain. Back we go to the house. We have supper, more conversations and then Mimi arrives with Lety. I have not seen Mimi since she left Toronto a few years ago. She wants to come back to Toronto soon. Nona pulls out some old family documents. Her family came to Veracruz in 1881 along with a number of other Italian immigrants. Nona's family actually begins in Russia where they immigrated to Italy. After Mimi leaves uncle Manual drops in for coffee and some conversation.

It is past 11:00 pm when we go off to bed. We sleep late and don't get going until 9:00 am. No coffee or breakfast which disappoints Nona. She knows that we are off to Veracruz and do not have a lot of time. She wishes us a safe trip.

Back on the road again. The city of Veracruz is only an hour away. We arrive at 10:00 am but it takes us a Little time to find the hotel. It has been 10 years since I have been here and there has been a lot of development along the water front. We check in to the hotel. This is a magical place. The hotel was built in the 1940's and is modeled after a cruise ship with multiple levels all looking out to sea. We settle into the room and then off to "El centro" and the Zocalo.

The traffic is crazy down town. No parking in sight when suddenly a guy waves us into a tiny spot. Whoa! That was great. So off we trot looking for the Zocalo. We haven't had breakfast so brunch is calling. We find the Zocalo and pick a restaurant. Shrimp for breakfast. I picked up a city map from the tourist office on the Zocalo. George and I look it over to decide on what sights we should take in. We decide to walk along the waterfront and go down to the aquarium which I remember as being equivalent to the one in Boston.

Off we go. We run the gauntlet past all of the street vendors along the way. The views are wonderful and the sun is shinning brightly with gentle sea breezes. The walk turned out to be very long, about 2 km. Anyway, we arrive. I see that my memory has faded. Although the aquarium is big and has those spots where the fish and sharks swim over you, this is not like the Boston aquarium. Still it is impressive. I see that they added a dolphin tank with 3 dolphins. They are very big.





There is lots of shopping in the building which suggests that we go to a mall.We grab a taxi back to our car and we drive to the Mall of the Americas. This is a big mall on the scale of Square One in Mississauga. We do a little window shopping then we look for "The Italian Coffee Company". George needs his coffee and sweets. Of course I have to humour him and have cheese cake too.

Back to the hotel for a quick change then back to town. We take a taxi this time because there will be drinking. The Zocalo is different in the evening. There are more music groups then diners in the cafes. There are 3 groups playing and they are all within 4 tables of us. The music and singing blends into one large orchestra. The passing vendors are selling Rolex watches, Cuban cigars, peanuts, hammocks and other food items. The place is crazy with sounds, colours and people. We love it. Of course I buy a box of Romeo and Juliette, robustos. The guy wants 350 pesos for them . We settle on 300 pesos which means that the cigars are about 1 dollar each.

After supper which is about 10:30 pm we decide it is time for coffee and desert. We find a taxi and order him to take us to a "The Italian Coffee Company" in the Boca Del Rio area (near our hotel). We have a coffee and carrot cake. For some reason the waiter at the cash thinks my request for Pastel Zanahoria is funny. But a smart quick girl behind the counter runs back to the kitchen and returns with a whole cake. She understood my request and jumped upon it. Great service. My Spanish must be good.

It is midnight by the time we are ready to go because I had one of the cigars. It was very good. So a taxi ride back to the hotel and off to bed.

I am up by 8:00 am. By 9:00 am George and I are in the breakfast room overlooking the grounds and the sea. George loves sitting in the sun looking off to sea.We walk down to the beach which is just off the hotel property. It is a very nice day and a good opportunity to have a morning cigar. A guy walks by us with a large pail, the size of a milking pail. It is full of freshly caught shrimp which he is selling to people on the beach.

Now it is time to leave. We head back up to the hotel and check out. Off we head home. Our first stop along the way is at "The Italian Coffee Company" for a send off coffee. Before actually getting home we will have sampled 2 more Italian Coffee Company locations. The weather is great and the traffic not too bad. We make the trip in under 5 hours. I must have been driving very quickly it seems.

What a great trip.